The Gentleman's Guide To Wax Jackets
How and why the iconic wax jacket, rooted in heritage and country, belongs in your wardrobe as an undeniable hero and symbol of British style.
A Brief History Of The Wax Jacket
The process of waxing goes back as far as the fifteenth century when sails of clipper ships were oiled with wax to help brave the stormy seas a little easier. Fast forward to the nineteenth century and the waxed canvas clothing as we understand it today was born. Scottish mariners sought protection from the same harsh sea conditions, so they ingeniously coated sails with fish oil to enhance waterproofing and aerodynamics'; this innovation gradually extended to their clothing. Subsequently, linseed oil, a by-product of Scottish flax weaving, became the preferred choice, transforming retired sails into waterproof garments, now associated with the enduring colour yellow of fisherman.
Cotton sails rose in popularity, prompting experimentation with this lightweight, dense fabric for clothing. In the 1930s, paraffin wax treatments, known as ‘waxing’, rendered cotton breathable and eliminated linseed oil reapplications. This development, along with the jackets' adoption during World War II, spurred their evolution into durable, multifunctional garments.
What makes the Wax Jacket essential to own?
If you had the good grace to watch The Crown, by the first four seasons you would have noticed that it is effectively, as one writer titled his blog, 'Barbour jacket porn'. He wasn't wrong. The relationship between Barbour and the Royal Family is long-established and thereby gives weight to the idea that a wax jacket (be it Barbour or another) is an iconic staple in a gentleman's wardrobe and undeniable symbol of British style.
Which brands make the best wax jacket?
Needless to say 'best' can be subjective a description, what we mean here is predominantly in manufacturing standards firstly, quality of cloth and construction, what was spared due to expense and what was not, and of course the overall style and impact the final product makes.
Private White V.C.
Private White V.C., a distinguished name in the realm of wax jackets and classic menswear, epitomises the fusion of heritage and craftsmanship. Nestled in the heart of Manchester, this iconic brand operates from a 150-year-old factory—the last of its kind in the area. Adorned by enviable luminaries like Tom Hardy, Daniel Craig, and David Beckham, Private White V.C. has etched its name into British sartorial history.
At this moment, we can say Private White V.C. are considered the best for most of the above criteria. I have to say, I'm not the biggest fan of the selection of styles as I write this in 2023, but I concede that the quality on every level is second to none. My favourite of the options available is in fact The Permanent Style Wax Walker crafted in partnership with Simon Crompton. If I were saving up for any of them, it would be that.
Barbour
"It's very desirable to have a very well-worn Barbour jacket”, said Dame Margaret Barbour (Chairman of J. Barbour & Sons). She was absolutely on the money. Her Late Majesty was said to have been offered a replacement of her much-loved Barbour jacket after having it for twenty-five years, to which she apparently replied she was happy to just have her old one re-waxed.
This is what you are buying when you buy Barbour. The older, the more worn, the better. That applies to wax jackets from any brand, but there is an extra whiff of countryside mixed with chic when it’s a Barbour. I love my Barbour (Ashby model as pictured below), and while they have transitioned from full cotton to using more synthetic materials (e.g. in the sleeve lining), the price is very reasonable, there remains plenty of selection, and because they are distributed to so many retailers, you can find them at very good prices. You are also wearing a quintessentially British brand too. What’s not to love?
Belstaff
Hopefully, by now, you will have realised that Man For Today is about timeless elegance, especially in recalling icons from the past who knew a thing or two about everlasting style. Steve McQueen is one such icon, and his love for Belstaff is quite the testimony.
In actuality, there is a small debate over whether the original Wax Trailmaster Jacket was a creation by Barbour or Belstaff. Belstaff has claimed ownership of the original, and it is well-established that while Steve McQueen certainly wore Barbour, he did like Belstaff. So much so that he reportedly stayed in one night to re-wax it instead of going out with his girlfriend.
I think Belstaff epitomises the motorcycle jacket, and there is plenty of selection to choose from, often all in black, dark navy or olive.
How to style a wax jacket
Wax jackets are as functional in the wardrobe as they are in the field. Wax jackets make perfect sense for the often inclement weather we on British shores face for most of the year, but they are not only restricted to that. The Wax Jacket is now considered one of the perfect candidates for something called High/Low dressing.
High/Low dressing is the art of combining smarter garments, such as tailoring, with more casual and approachable pieces to give the outfit a more balanced and less pretentious feel - something most of us aim for in day-to-day life outside of those sleek corporate spheres. Sharp immaculate tailoring all over can look too much in too many environments.
Accusations of 'going to an interview' fly in out of nowhere. Dressing the outfit down with one casual element solves the problem, and when Autumn/Winter pops its head around the corner, a wax jacket fits the bill perfectly to wear over those finer sportscoats and flannel trousers.
Alternatively, you can just throw it over a jumper with more rugged jeans or chinos and be done with it, that’s also a winner.
How should a wax jacket fit?
Wax jackets should naturally be roomy. I've seen guys wear them like it's a light spring jacket where it ends before the seat and really sits tight on the arms. You want it to end at least after your seat (depending on the style of jacket you opt for in the end) and to be able to easily fit chunkier knitwear, shirts, and ideally a sportscoat or blazer underneath. This will depend on the exact model from whichever brand you go for, and so I’d recommend trying before buying for most men.
Britain will only make you sure of one thing: we obsessively talk about the weather. We find ourselves drenched in such talk because we have to deal with it all the time, particularly that bloody wet stuff. In which case, the wax jacket is probably one of the best, most utilitarian, and unquestionably British you can own.
