A Short Guide To Your First Ever Suit

Full canvas or half? Navy or grey? Single or double-breasted? John-Paul breaks down the design, detail, and fabric you should pay attention to when making this vital sartorial investment.

Your first proper suit will be like your first true love - with you for years and unforgettable. It might be the one you regularly wear for years to come or that helps you make that crucial step into the world of classic menswear. In either case, here is what I would suggest as your first staple suit.

Why do I need a suit? What’s the purpose?

Often referred to as Four Season or Three-Season, your first suit should cover a vast range of occasions and climates that simply swapping out the shirt, tie, pocket square, or abandoning those altogether will serve you well until you later invest in more suits that are a little more specific and narrower in purpose (e.g. summer suit, winter suit)

What colour should my first suit be?

Navy is your best bet because it is almost the ultimate suit colour and oozes sophistication. It looks elegant and flattering on anyone, so long as it is mid-deep navy and not on the bluer side.

Jacket style

The most straightforward coat style for your first suit is a single-breasted two-piece (tailors may offer a waistcoat too but it is not essential). Ask your tailor about shoulder styles if you are unsure how much padding is best for you.

Fabric

Make sure your fabric is made from pure wool. Remember, the store brand or marketing is not as important as the quality of the fabric and its construction. Unless you’re the CEO of a Hedge Fund in New York, I’d stay away from the super silky and lightweight fabrics. Anything up to s130 is acceptable.

Lapels

Medium-width lapels are perfect, neither skinny nor too bold. I went for peak lapels on my first suit because they add chicness to an otherwise formal-looking suit. Notch lapels are equally a good and refined choice. You decide.

Canvas

Full canvas will cost more, but the drape on the lower half of the jacket will be noticeably better, especially if you want to wear this in a business setting and as a proper four-season suit. If not, you need at least half-canvas.

Pockets

Slanted flapped pockets are particularly elegant. A ticket pocket on the right side is a nice extra touch but not essential. If you want to increase your chances of success pairing your coat as an 'odd jacket' with trousers, then patch pockets will work better. This is a key consideration, so think about it carefully.

Trousers

Flat-fronted trousers with side adjusters are reliable and dependable because pleated trousers are a bit more sartorial, more of a statement piece, which I love for trousers on their own (separates), but a navy suit should probably be a little plainer, in my opinion.

Waistband style

Side adjusters are better than belt loops for they offer the right amount of room on the waist when needed. Plus, they elongate your figure, making you look taller and slimmer due to not wearing a belt.

Just in case, you can ask to have suspender buttons sewn in on the inside. You may never use them, but it is nice to have the option. Suspenders look much classier than belts.