Is Pitti Uomo “The Coachella of Menswear”?
The greatest menswear show on earth or the mere gathering of men purely for show? John-Paul reflects on his first-ever Pitti Uomo experience.
It's been a week or so now since Pitti Uomo 105 came to an end, or Pitti 1 for first-time goers like myself. Understandably then, you cannot pop your Pitti cherry without shooting some content standing next to the famous walls of the central pavilion so everybody knows where you are and how stylish you are. Guilty.
Nor can you not go to the local Osteria to take pictures of each other eating pasta before an evening of non-stop Negroni and lapel-stroking in the most masturbatory manner. This reel sums it up marvellously.
As self-aware as many people are when they do this, I'm forced to wonder if that's as good as it gets. Is that it? Is Pitti Uomo even worth it beyond that? That's kind of the problem that lingers in my reflections on the event a week later. I wasn't quite sure how to summarise it all until I came across an interview with Luca Rubinacci with Mitchell Moss (@menswearmusings) who said,
“I’ve been going to Pitti Uomo since I was six years old. Now, there’s no way to go anymore to Pitti Uomo. Now, Pitti Uomo is just the Coachella of menswear.”
When I heard this, I thought, 'that's exactly it!' Why did I feel as if some part of the event was a little bit of a letdown? It's because it felt more like a festival for the flash than the niche gathering of hobbyists it appears to be from the outside. And if someone like Luca Rubinacci is damning in his comments about it, then this ought to give us pause for thought.
Now, I expected there to be a lot of people there, stylish people at that. The number of genuinely great outfits and people with an incredible sense of taste is heaven for one's inspiration. These really are some of the most stylish people you will see so concentrated in one area.
I also knew there would be the peacocks who stand there preening themselves, slowly mincing around the pavilion waiting for the next, 'Hey sir, can I take a photo of you?' but despite the thirty thousand or so entrants who visit each Pitti Uomo, there's certainly more exclusivity than meets the eye.
The real Pitti Uomo, I’d say, is not the exhibition itself (who seem to be growing fewer), but the well-established groups and connections that exist already. It's in the nighttime events that are usually invitation only (albeit not that exclusive when 'plus one' really means plus five).
I enjoyed one event at the Palazzo Gaddi where one expert talked about the nature of Italian craftsmanship and why beauty runs through their fingers. That, for me, is the type of thing I came to hear.
On the positive side
It was not the only positive feature of the trip. I don't want to sound too negative because there were certainly some positives in addition to the aforementioned.
First, the people I met were great people, no doubt. Pitti is not short of wonderful, talented people who have such great taste, drive, and ambition matched only by their friendliness and easy-going manner. I can see why that would trump all, and it does in some respect. There were some great moments thanks to those people, no matter where we were.
Second, Pitti Uomo is incredible in Florence because Florence itself is incredible. The ability to wander the narrow streets and bombard yourself with constant renaissance beauty is a huge factor in its favour. The galleries, the cafes, the streets, the locals; it is the type of city I could be happy in. Florence will no doubt call me again for another trip.
Concluding remarks
I have to give my honest opinion about anything I see and experience, and with my hand on my heart, I lean more towards the conclusion that the whole thing was, in fact, a pitti.
Do I think Pitti Uomo is worth going to? It depends on what you want to get out of it, if getting anything out of it is the applicable mindset at all. All in all, it is worth going to primarily for the people you meet. Do I think Pitti Uomo is necessary to go to? For some people, brands, journalists, and creators it is necessary. If your reasons for visiting lie beyond the scope of tangible career benefits, I cannot say that it is necessary to go, certainly not every season or every year.
Will I go to Pitti Uomo 106 in the summer? We will see.
